I'm looking at picking up an electronic dart board and I was wondering what the going price was and if they are difficult to fix or service yourself. What I may be picking up may not be working and/or in pieces.what would be a fair amount to offer for a non-working or non-running English Mark Darts Super 6? I want to be fair but I don't want to be taken either. Sorry for the dumb questions, I've never dealt with this before and my hope is to get a running (maybe in pieces) dart board or one that needs basic wiring repair. Thanks in advance for any information. I picked up two Super Six Plus II models from a local operator for $50 each, non-working. Turned out both had a bad RAM that cost about $2.
Got both working, sold one on eBay for $300ish, then found a Galaxy machine for $250 and sold the other one on eBay. Turned out that I ended up $250 ahead with a better dart machine than I started with. If you get one, make sure to get one that's updated with the thin spider. Keep an eye on eBay for complete segment kits.
Betson sells all the replacement parts, but they can be.incredibly. expensive. If you can find a working Galaxy in good shape for less than $500 or so, jump on it. For a Super Six, maybe $150 or less working. Even if you get a non working model, the circuit is incredibly simple, and spare parts show up on eBay all the time.
If you get one that needs work, feel free to PM me and I'll help you out if I can. Ok, picked up a Super 6 Plus II, working in really good (IMO) condition. Everything seems to work on it, all lights, sounds, the dartboard seems to respond to every area (tested with finger flick), plus keys and a series 6000 manual. Everything for under $150 (which I am very happy about). Thanks for the responses! Can anyone point me to any info on the web re: manuals, what the 'plus II' is or anything? Does this model have a 'free play' mode or do I have to wire up a button to the coin door?
Thanks again. Here's the link to the manufacturer's site with manuals and technical bulletins: Click on 'Archive'.
Once there check out 'Archive Contents' - '6000 series' and 'Tech Tips'. Here is the latest link to Super 6 manuals: The longtime game operator I used to work for had over 100 of these machines on the route. Super 6's are collectivelly known as the 6000 series. Model 6000 is the Super Six (earliest model) Identified by the fact it did NOT have the Coin/credit circuit board (little board with 3 banks of dip switches).
The main gameboard did NOT have the 4 postion dip switch on it. The cabinet graphics on the front were mostly black with yellow highlights. Manufactured from 1986 to 1988. Model 6100 is the Super Six Plus (intermediate model) First appearance of the little coin credit circuit board. The main gameboard now has a dip switch on it. Cabinet graphics still mostly black.
Manufactured in 1988. Models 6200 & 6300 are the Super Six Plus II (last model). Cabinet graphics are now mostly yellow with black highlights.
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Manufactured in 1989. All the lighted pushbutton switches use #658 (12 volt) wedge base lamps. Don't use any other number of lamp as the lamp driver circuitry will be damaged. The 'throw darts' and 'remove darts' lights are #2182D lamps with the wire leads. The most common problems with this series dart machines are the power supply assembly which loves to eat bridge rectifiers and the target head assembly which will cause the game to lock up if if stuck tips hold any switch stuck 'on' (closed ). Later, the 'Super Spider' target head was introduced which used a thin 'spider' and larger segments.
The switch matrix is different for the Super Spider and this requires a different target interface board # 32579 in order to score properly. The switch matrix for the Super Spider has one single ribbon cable whereas the original old style target head switch matrix has three ribbon cables. There are changes to the gameboard in order to use the Super spider head. It is shown in a service bulletin Arachnid issued. Wow, thanks for all the info Ken. It is much appreciated.
That answers a lot of my questions. Thanks for the tips re: the lights, they all currently work but it's good to know, as well as the no free play mode. Everything seems to work, but about 20 minutes ago I flipped it on and got the 'bullseye' noise every other second and the screen had some garbled letters, if I hit reset I could get the noise to stop until I tried to enter a coin, then it would start again. Got worried that my working game had some latent problems that were now surfacing. I shut it down and restarted it and it seems to have cleared up. Not sure what that was, but I hope it doesn't lead to anything permanent. Last I tried everything looked and responded perfectly.
Oh well, thanks again for filling in the gaps for me! Not every main gameboard had the RCA composite NTSC video output jack installed. Sure the solder pads are there for it, but some lazy person at the factory just didn't feel like putting the RCA jacks on one day.
This gameboard only outputs black & white graphics, but it does look better on a bigger tv set though. There's a battery backed Dallas ram chip on the gameboard that's old enough now to be losing memory due to the internal battery dying. Read your later 6000 series manual about the 'Spider Writer' attract mode text stuff about clearing the garbage and random characters out of the memory. You can even use that feature to write 'Welcome to Joe's house now put money in this machine' or whatever you'd like it to say during attract mode! I checked and it looks like I do have the video out on the game board.not sure I would use this but it's nice to know. Had the game plugged in for about 30 mins and the problem surfaced again.
The sound was the same as when you throw a dart in the board without any quarters in it (but it plays continually). Started to think about this and I'm guessing that some of the broken tips may be somehow registering.not sure why it's not a 'all the time' sort of thing, but I removed the easy to grab tips out and I'm thinking about removing the back to remove the few jammed, hard to pull tips out. Who knows what else is between the board and the sensor? I also played a minute with the spider writer, confirmed I can add text.(didn't plan anything out but the junk I put out stayed, I'll have to read up on how to clear the screen to put my own text in.
If anyone has removed the back to remove broken dart tips I'd appreciate any advice.I'm a little nervous to do this but I'll read whatever manuals I can find to do it. UPDATE: Well, I didn't remove the dart board 'spider' but loosening the wing nuts on the back made the problem go away. I removed the broken tips from the front and will wait to take the back off all the way until I read more up on the subject. Just want to make sure nothing else is lodged between the board and the sensor. But hey, It's working again!
Gameboard dip switch should be added if it is not presently installed on the gameboard. More games were added in the software chip in later models. Coin/credit board was not in the 6000 (Super Six), but is in the 6100, 6200, and 6300 series.
If the plastic 'tips' of the hinge break off, they can be fixed cheap & easy by drilling a small starter hole and putting a screw in it. If the clear plexiglass monitor cover breaks it's retainers off and the plexi flops around, you can fix it by drilling starter holes into the black plastic housing and putting in short sheet metal screws from the rear. I just picked up one of these off of craigslist. Is there a good way to clean the inside and boards or should I just leave it? All of the cards on the inside have a nice layer of dust caked on. I haven't messed around with it too much, but everything seems to be working fine right now. Wiped down the plastic parts and used a paintbrush to get dust off the boards as well as I could There is also no plexiglass in front of the monitor.
I'm going to look to see if I could cut one and put it in. Cut plexiglass. The retainer is missing, so I will try to velcro it or something similar to secure it. The whole back panel should come off correct? It looks like they had to screw in some 2x4s to make it more stable on the bottom at some point. Also the top half is a little wobbly when you try to move it, is this normal or is there a way to tighten it up?
The back panel does not come off. It was missing the two bolts on the back to secure the top.
Found the right size in the manual and after adding them the top was a lot more secure. Do you know what bulbs are used around the dart board itself? I have one but need to pick up two more to have it fully lit. Found the correct size of bulb (5 1/2' 40 Watt). I noticed the two side ones have a reflector piece behind them. Is this really needed?
Also, are there LED alternatives or something else that won't get as hot? Edit: Answered most of my questions after reading manuals that Ken has linked to. Glad to find this forum!
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I have an English Mark board as well. I am a bit of a tinkerer and work in IT so of course I want to try a couple of things. First, is there source code available anywhere? I have an EPROM chip that I want to try to add some games features to for my board at home. Second, with the Galaxy 2 software work on an English Mark board? My guess is that it won't, probably some hardware issues there.
Lastly (for now, is there anyway to get color display instead of just black/yellow? If you got a Super Six Plus 2, that would be a model 6200 or 6300 and should have a 'Coin/Credit' board installed.
If that board has been removed, the pricing will be screwed up, but you could still play the machine. The game locking up or freezing up is such a common problem and has been discussed many times and on many forums. To boil it down, there are two causes: broken dart tips in the target head holding one of the switch matrix contacts stuck closed or a bad power supply board. All the cabinet locks are keyed alike to National Cabinet Lock Company key number C-415A.
It can be ordered from most local locksmith shops, but it is also a key used on some Rowe jukeboxes and it can be ordered here: Just scroll down that page about halfway and you'll see it. The 'electronics drawer' tilt down front and the dart machine wooden back door should both be a C-415A key. The coin door is always keyed differently from everything else so there could be just about any old lock and key on it.
I picked up two Super Six dart boards and I want to get one working using the two. I know nothing about these or where to begin. I can't seem to find a manual or anything online. They look like this (heads were removed for transport): The nicest dart board (and the one I am going to make work) had a label on it that said 'dead monitor'. So, I was hoping I would get it to at least play blind. When I plug it in, it does nothing. I think the Power Supply is bad.
Don't know why I think that. But it is just a hunch.
I checked the fuse in the power supply on the back and someone soldered a wire across it. There is no fuse. So, where do I go from here? Is there a site that has the manuals? Is there a site selling parts for these still? Capacitor C9 on that power supply board is on the +12vdc line running the video monitor. This is a high failure item.
Originally it was a 1 uf @ 25 volts. Arachnid issued a service bulletin to upgrade this part to a 2.2 uf @ 50 volts radial lead electrolytic capacitor. I just added it to my order. After inspecting my transformer, it looks like it really heated up.
The goo from the inside dripped out and hardened. So, I sure hope the transformer is still good.
That BR really messed things up. One more thing. I do have a early working pcb (the one that does not use the seperate credit board and single bull deathead) and i so have a dearhead in decent shape but there is black paint overspray(latex) all over it so it will need to bee taken apart and cleaned. I do believe i also have a ad-6000? Manual as well. Lmk if you need some krap.
ENjoy btw, those are great boards once they are fixed up!!! Thanks, Cad!! After looking at my power supply I realize it is totally hosed.
The board is melted. I am sure I could get it to work with great effort and some jumpers. I found a couple guys selling working power supplies. I should be getting them next week. If I need anything, I'll let you know.
I am hoping to get both dart boards working and then sell the second. I really can't wait to play this thing! My wife and I played the heck out of these back in the day. First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts. Second thing to check is all in the target head: Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix.
When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both? If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes. If it does then the problem is in the target head. If it does not, the the problem is either the +5 volts from the power supply is too high or too low, or else the gameboard itself has problems. If the gameboard is suspected, the problems I used to see on it were either the cold solder joints on the connector header pins (usually on the power input connector) or the video ram chips and/or the video graphics processor chip have gone bad. First thing to check is the power supply +5 volts.
Who Makes Arachnid Dart Boards
Second thing to check is all in the target head: Broken tips, cracked segments (usually the pie wedge ones), or a dirty rubber damper holding a switch closed inside the switch matrix. When the game locks up again, does it lock up in the game over (attract) mode or while playing, or both? If it locks up again during game over (attract mode), unplug the target interface board from the gameboard. Now wait a couple of minutes to see if the game over attract mode resumes. If it does then the problem is in the target head.
If it does not, the the problem is either the +5 volts from the power supply is too high or too low, or else the gameboard itself has problems. If the gameboard is suspected, the problems I used to see on it were either the cold solder joints on the connector header pins (usually on the power input connector) or the video ram chips and/or the video graphics processor chip have gone bad. I read a bunch of old posts about this and it seems to be pretty common. I am gonna start with the green caps on the Power Supply since I have them here ready to go. Ok, I think I am making progress. Thank god I bought two complete units for $25.00.
So, I tried disconnecting the dart board from the main PCB and left it in attract. It locks up even when the dart board is disconnected. So, that has been ruled out. The second dart board I have had a 6000 board in it (no dip switch). So, I stuck that board in. Oddly, it has a newer 2.7 ROM while my 6300 board has a 2.2. The 6000 board has been rock solid all night.
Hasn't locked up once. But, I want that 6300 board so I can enable double bull (one of my dart boards is a double bull one.) So, I swapped what I think are the two video RAM chips (are the video ram chips the TMs4416 memory chips?) and the TMS9118 video chip from the 6000 to the 6300 board. So, if it was the video chips that were locking it up then this should make the 6300 board work without locking up. Cross your fingers.
I also swapped out roms so the newer 2.7 ROM is in the 6300. I also took apart the double bull board and cleaned it up. It is a double bull board (that's what it says on the back) but doesn't have the double bull insert. So, I need to get that.
Where can I buy the LED lamps and sockets that go in the main PCB for the throw darts and remove darts lights? I am missing one and the ones I have are not too bright. Anyways, I am gonna leave the board on for an hour or so and see if it locks up. I think I fixed this thing with your guidance, Ken!! Thanks Cadillac too. Jusat get a pc type 12 volter and hook it up to the 12v on the ps. I didnt even solder mine i just used thin wire stuck it inside the connector then plugged it back in to make a tight connection.
Iirc one of my old ad600s kept acting up and the video ram was running hella hot. Replaced and all good. I.might. have some leftover spare chips but ill have to look.
I know i have a spare tested working 6000 board but its a oldie for single bull. And iirc theres one chip with a chunk out of it but when tested again ti was working.albeit 2 years ago lol. Converting a 6000 (Super Six), 6100 (Super Six Plus), 6200 & 6300 (Super Six Plus 2) power supply from that crappy linear design to a modern switching regulator. You will need a screw terminal switching regulator power supply capable of outputing at least 3 amps on the +12 volt line.
The reason for this is that the monitor, amplifier, and coin door lamps/gameboard lamps/pushbutton lamps all run on the 12 volts. Remove the old circuit board that's screwed to the big blue capacitor.
Remove the big blue electrolytic capacitor and it's mounting bracket. Remove the power transformer.
Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board. The wires should be about a foot long for each one.
These will be the AC power wires to the new switching regulator power supply. Place the new switching power supply on top of the chassis and mark locations of it's mounting brackets and drill four 3/32' holes. When drilling the holes be sure not to drill through the lamp dimmer board (or it's components) and make sure no metal filings/shavings fall on the board. Mount the new supply with four #6 sheet metal screws about 1/4' to 3/8' long. Now to connect the DC outputs of the new supply to the game harness. Connect all the +5 volt wires of the game wiring harness (pins 4 and 6) to the +5 volt terminal on the new supply.
Connect all the GROUND wires of the game wiring harness (pins 1, 3, 9, and 10) to the Common terminals on the new supply. Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection. Two common cabinet related fixes: The plastic 'tips' of the hinges break off allowing the front tip down panel to flop all over the place.
To fix it just drill a small starter hole like 3/32' diameter and screw in a 1' long sheet metal or drywall screw. See the picture (sorry it's a little blurry). The retainers holding the clear plexiglass cover for the monitor break off allowing it to flop all over the place. Drill a 3/32' hole all the way through the black plastic front panel. Then run a # 6 by 1/2' long sheet metal screw in there from the inside. See the picture.
Just found this site after my dartboard started smoking last night. Been reading prior posts and printed out the manual.Thanks I have an arachnid 6300 I think. (The front of the cabinet says 'Super 6 plus ll'). The board on the top of the blue capacitor has a label that says '01986 Arachnid inc.
0' The part labeled BR1 on this board looks burnt. I see in the manual that this is a Bridge Rectifier 8A 200PIV.
Any idea where I can find a replacement? I read in one of the posts that someone ordered one from 'Bob'. Any contact info? I've currently got 3 Merit Pub Time machines. One had bad screen burn on the monitor, and the other 2 were missing monitors.
I managed to get 3 NOS monitors on eBay a while ago. 2 of them were Omni Vision monitors from the Arachnid dart games, and the 3rd is a Samsung, and I don't know what it came from. The 2 Arachnid monitors work great in the Pub Time games as they don't need a sync run to them. They only need a ground, power, and video line to the connector. The 3rd monitor however, is in need of sync, but the main board in the Pub Time game does not provide a sync on any of the pin outs in the manual. So, what I need is a 9' monitor from the Arachnid games or the original 9' monitor from the Pub Time games. If anyone has a NOS monitor or knows where to get another one of these, please let me know.
I believe the manufacture that the Pub Time games used was Hantarex. There may have been others, like the Kristel and Omnivision monitors from the Arachnid games.
And don't forget about the Arachnid manuals I put in at arcarc: I also wrote a repair guide for the 9' amber monitors they used in these machines. Remember, Arachnid used two different monitor manufacturers (Kristel and Omnivision) during the production run. I have the manual for the monitor.
Is the repair guide still available? Problem: no raster; 12VDC from power supply, drops to 10.4VDC when monitor connected. Have tried two different power supplies with same results.
ENGLISH MARKS DARTS by Arachnid Description This is a classic 1985 electronic dart board produced by the industry leading Arachnid. The 4500 series model has 4 games to choose from and automatically keeps score for up to 4 players. Special plastic dart tips (included) are compatible with your existing darts or you can use the darts supplied with the game. Nice safety feature - no more holes in the wall. A unique addition to your game room. Features. Four different dart games to choose from.
Automatic scoring for up to four players. Slender design for easy access and saves space. Brightly lit dart board play area. Coin operated or free play options. Instruction manual included Yours for just $685 SELECT IMAGE - CLICK TO ENLARGE.
ENGLISH MARKS DARTS 4500 Series Electronic Dart Board Machine Specs Height: Width: Depth: Weight: Act Dim Wt.: lbs Ship Dim Wt.: lbs COMPONENT DESCRIPTION RATING NOTATIONS Electronics All circuit boards and wiring are in excellent condition 9.5 Very clean Mechanics All controls are in excellent condition 9.5 Clean, smooth and tight Cabinet Slender cabinet is in very good condition 9.0 Very solid, nice finish, some touch-up Marquee Marquee is in excellent condition 9.5 No flaking or visible scratches Control Panel Control panel is in excellent condition 9.5 Buttons in excellent shape. Coin Door Coin door is in excellent condition 9.5 Accessories and Miscellaneous Manual included Prices and conditions are accurate at the time they are posted. Changes can occur between updates. Prices and conditions may not reflect changes at the time they are viewed.
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